ENTRÉE

From dishwashing to direction

Stephen’s first step into hospitality wasn’t romantic.

‘I actually wanted to be a footballer,’ he admits, ‘but I quickly realised that wasn’t going to happen. So, I got a job washing dishes back home in Scotland when I was 15.’

It was grunt work. Floors, dishes, the owner’s car – he cleaned it all.

‘But after a while, they let me help with the prep work,’ he says. ‘I was doing very basic jobs. Then one of the chefs said, “If you want to be a proper chef, you need to go train with the best.”’

So, Stephen did exactly that, landing an entry-level apprenticeship at one of the top kitchens in the area.

‘I didn’t know anything about gastronomy,’ he shares, ‘but it became clear it wasn’t just about food. It was about stories. Technique. Letting the ingredients shine.’

The broccoli tart we’re eating proves that point – a delicate pastry shell filled with vivid green florets, silky custard and a whisper of sharp cheese. It’s deceptively simple, yet completely delicious.

The things that stick

Stephen’s early kitchen experience taught him… a lot.

‘I always loved eating food, but I didn’t have a clue about the world of hospitality until I started working in it,’ he reflects. ‘The biggest things I learned were around work ethic, rigour and how to respect the ingredients.

‘Wastage wasn’t an option. Every penny was a prisoner,’ Stephen continues. ‘That idea – that ingredients are valuable – has stuck with me.’

Although, in a way, he had already learned that lesson earlier in life.

‘I was raised in a working-class family, so there was always this sense of using what you have,’ he remembers. ‘We weren’t fancy eaters growing up – it was always simple food. Sunday roasts, bangers and mash, takeaway pizza on a Friday.’

He’s since introduced his family to the world of fine dining. ‘They’ve come on the journey with me, but they’re definitely not getting into hospitality anytime soon,’ he laughs.

We move on to the hiramasa kingfish, dressed in rhubarb and ruby red grapefruit. It’s acidic and elegant – one of those dishes that’s light but satisfying.

After a few bites, Stephen concludes: ‘I think what I really value is quality. If the ingredients aren’t high quality, I don’t want to work with them.’

 

 

MAIN

Big kitchens, big lessons

From Scotland, Stephen headed to New York – landing a spot at Eleven Madison Park (one of the most awarded restaurants in the world).

‘It was a machine,’ he reflects. ‘Insanely structured. Every move mattered.’

He describes it as a ‘military operation,’ but the biggest surprise wasn’t the food. It was the service.

‘I saw hospitality that truly moved people. Tiny gestures that completely changed a guest’s experience. That really stuck with me.’

The bavette – a wagyu MB9 cut from Blackmore – lands from the kitchen next. It’s served with roasted onion and celeriac purée.

Bold and comforting, we stay quiet for the next few minutes while the beef does the talking.

 

 

How Omnia came to life

After working in New York for a couple of years, Stephen moved to Australia – bringing with him the precision and discipline of some of the world’s best kitchens.

Not long after, in 2019, Omnia started as a pop-up while the Chapel Street site was under construction.

‘We were testing things, building a team, finding our rhythm,’ Stephen says.

By the time they moved into the current space, the pandemic hit. ‘It was brutal,’ he says. ‘But it forced us to get clear on what mattered – what we actually wanted to offer.’

That’s also around the time when Stephen met Larry Kestelman.

‘Larry asked me, “Have you thought about starting a hospitality company?”’ Stephen recalls. ‘And from there, LK Hospitality was born.’

Today, the venture includes venues like Yugen, YTB, The Grand Room & Bromley Gallery and Marvel Stadium’s ALTIS – but Omnia remains the heart. At least for Stephen’s wife, Jenna, and two-year-old son, Archie. ‘Of all my restaurants, Omnia’s definitely their favourite,’ he smiles.

Even the name holds meaning. ‘Omnia is Latin – it means ‘all’ or ‘everything’. For us, it means everyone’s welcome. You don’t need a reason to be here. Just come, eat and enjoy.’

It was apt timing, then, that the goats' curd agnolotti arrives next. Soft, hearty, filled with pumpkin and topped with za’atar and labneh.

DESSERT

Passing it on

Stephen’s role at Omnia today is equal parts mentor and culinary director.

‘It’s about giving the team a clear philosophy – flavour first, always – and then helping them make it their own.’

But it’s also about embracing change.

‘Crafting a menu is a never-ending process of evaluation and criticism,’ Stephen explains. ‘People’s tastes change all the time. What might be too rich at one time of the year could be too light at another. So, you constantly need to tweak the menu.’

A perfect example lands on the table in front of us.

‘Evan, our head chef, used to bring in these canelés for us to try all the time. Everyone loved them,’ Stephen remembers with a smile.

And it’s not hard to see why. That first bite – thick, caramelised crust giving way to a soft, custardy centre – is enough to turn any of us into a pastry enthusiast.

‘Now they’re on the menu. That’s the kind of growth I love seeing.’

 

 

Melbourne, the muse

With no shortage of cafés and restaurants to keep him inspired, it’s fair to say that Melbourne is now well and truly home for Scotsman Stephen. Which makes it all the more surprising that he had only planned to stay for six months.

‘I didn’t expect to love it,’ he admits. ‘But I got here over 10 years ago now, and I still haven’t left.’

So, what is it about Melbourne’s food scene that made him want to stay?

‘I love how casual it is,’ he says. ‘People aren’t going out just to get a good photo. They actually want to experience the food. No frills.’

Right on cue, dessert hits the table – a Valrhona chocolate tart with raspberry sorbet, and a liquid-centre cheesecake with cassis sorbet. Sweet, sharp, subtle and satisfying all at once.

TO FINISH

Heading back to basics

As far as the industry goes, Stephen’s anticipating a shift in the not-so-distant future.

‘I think we’ll see more small, owner-led venues again – less flash, more substance. That’s something I’m really excited for.’

But for Omnia – and for Stephen – the focus stays the same. ‘It doesn’t need to be clever. It just needs to be good. If someone walks out saying it was delicious, that’s a win.’

We finish our lunch full and happy. The food was honest, detailed and, yes, seriously delicious. We thank Stephen for his time and generosity, say our goodbyes and step back out into the buzz of Chapel Street – reminded again why Melbourne’s inner suburbs are so special.

With world-class restaurants, great schools, leafy streets and public transport on your doorstep, it’s easy to see why so many of our buyers want to call this neighbourhood home.

We’ll be back. And maybe next time, we’ll bring the whole team.

 

 

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